Alaska Yukon Trip 07
Day 3
August 24, 2009: At Hazleton was ‘Ksan, a recreation of a native Gitxsan longhouse village. I generally am less impressed by reconstructions than with authentic historical preservation’s, however I went to ‘Ksan to see the totem poles and artwork, which did not disappoint. Also, the fact that these reconstructed buildings are used for traditional feasts makes the site a little more special than one that is purely a tourist attraction.
I am fascinated by most native art & craft, but none more so than coastal artworks. I get a very spiritual vibe from totem poles. I know they are designed to tell a story, but interpreting them requires a knowledge of their culture and story-telling traditions. I am sure the true meanings are largely lost on me, but the spirituality with which they are created is not. I took many photographs of totem poles on this trip. More than I will post right away, but I am sure they will pop up often over the next year or two.
After touring ‘Ksan we drove the back highway to the native village of Ansbahyaxw (or Kispiox). Like most native communities in Canada, there is a sense of poverty by looking at the homes. However, as evidenced through the totem pole park, the culture is very rich and fascinating; and the people friendly. People actually wave when they drive by. It was here, at Kispiox, that I felt the most spiritual connection to the poles. One in particular was so haunting and sad it really made me want to cry.
This pole featured a woman holding, what I believe to be, a loon near the bottom. She is crying. Above her is a whale with a protruding fin. The fin also acts as the nose of another face. There is a medicine man with clam shell inserts above a mirror of another human face. A woman’s perhaps. An animal, a bear (I’m guessing) sits at the top. Again just a guess, would be that a great tragedy occurred in the family of the medicine man of the bear clan. Perhaps the death of a child. This pole still gives me goose bumps today. It is so moving to view in person.
I know if wasn’t just me that was moved by this totem pole collection. There were 2 European men at the park at the same time, who I believe were also moved by the poles. There were graves underneath some of the poles, as further testament that this was not just a collection of poles placed to entertain tourists. This park was a part of the culture of these native peoples. A culture and people which most Canadians can’t be bothered to try and understand, yet alone celebrate and protect. The feelings I got at this place were the same ones I’ve felt at a few other native sites. Specifically at Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump in southern Alberta, and the Valley of Fire in Nevada. There is something unique and sacred about these ancient sites.
In: Travels · Tagged with: ancient, BC, Canada, coastal art, Gitxsan, native, natives, sacred, totem pole, village
